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Oct 23, 2002   








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Fashion
Catwalk with Despardes and find out what's haute in the Desi fashion circuit...



Desi fashion could hit pardes
By Beverley D’Cruz
 

As Indians, the latest fashion fads were always prescribed after what was the haute in the west. Fashion for us was what the west wanted it to be. There was also a long term of people fighting against donning traditional wear because it wasn’t very in. The folks with the most different and original clothes, hot off Cosmo or Vogue were considered fashionable. Today however the trend has finally gone the opposite way. People realize that what is ‘in’ depends on how you look at it and most importantly style is how a person carries off an outfit not how much they spent for it.

The Indian salwar-khameez has lead to a spin off of lose pajamas which are very popular with today’s youth. Not only are they comfortable but also lend it a funky, casual style that looks great with baby tees or spaghetti tops. Instead of the usual 501’s (Levi’s) or V.S.O.P’s (Lee Jeans), young teens are finding pajamas the best bet for Indian weather and it doesn’t hurt the fact that they also stay within the anti-fit mode making them a wise choice for daily wear. Conforming to western standards the hipster is one of the best means of using salwar materials for pants with a different look. Not only are they now printed like the kameez would be but are even self-coloured with broad borders or encrusted with zari work for evening wear.

Closely related to the gypsy peasant skirt is the Indian chaniya-choli. The simple crunched cotton fabric lends the wearer a subtle, soft look along with a great deal of style. Different prints as well silver jewelry sewn onto the skirt itself have turned the skirt into a fashion statement. Wearing a hip belt a la Kashmiri women have also led to them becoming a popular trend. The entire look is more Goa related with comfort being the operational word. While most people reserved looking and dressing carefree for vacations many have surrendered to keeping daily wear simple. Hand woven, more natural fabric like Khadi are also popular choices for skirts and pants.

Evening wear has undergone not the greatest transformation but more obviously a grand awakening with regards to Indian fabrics. Keeping the cuts simple the fabrics are now the key to setting off the outfit. Sarees are being cut up and used to stitch elegant gowns, the ones with more intricate bordering being in greater demand. Zardosi work is always a winner for any blouse or dress. The right amount of embroidery could make or break the outfit. For office wear a simple business suit teamed with a beautiful silk scarf or pashmina wrap makes the wearer look chic yet dressed for the occasion.

Indian fabrics have always been rich with brocade, embroidery and the traditional hand and tie-die dye prints. The earliest rage was with tie-die t-shirts during the flower power years. Fabrics today have however come along way from being the base of a classic traditional Indian outfit. Several designers from the west have their own embroiderers and printers working back here with the traditional means to give the material that fine personalised perfection. Western clothes are now keeping the cuts and curves the same but substituting Indian fabrics to give it a unique look and feel. However while on some level the west still dictates our taste in fashion many westerners are starting to look to Indian wear for the perfect evening outfit. Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla dressed Dame Judy Dench for the Oscars and Ritu Kumar’s boutique is successful in London. It looks like it won’t be long before it is fashionable to wear a traditional Indian outfit in the west.

 


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