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 From selling junk
jewelry to roadside shops in Kolkata to displaying his Milan Fashion
Week collection in New Delhi, twenty-eight-year-old designer
Sabyasachi Mukherjee has come a long way.
On Monday afternoon,
Kolkata’s couture king showcased his new line at Carma. While
‘vintage’ is the undercurrent, the emphasis is on ‘tortured and
distressed treatment’, which takes the stiff formality out of the rich
fabrics. The result, brought in by varied treatments including
bleaching, burning and shredding, give the ensembles a casual air.
“Although my ensembles
have universal appeal, I have done good business in the Capital
because of the longer season,” revealed Sabyasachi, or ‘Pepsi’, as
he’s commonly referred to. “My ‘Indianised’ Milan collection has the
same sensibility as the ‘Neo Romantic Frog Princess’ line. There are a
lot of distressed fabrics, tea stains, gussets and layering. An
eclectic mix, the line comprises trench coats, velvet skirts, retro
jackets and ‘tortured’ saris with quirky blouses. My base is Kolkata
and this is prominently displayed in my collection. I have used a lot
of kantha stitches and quilting with vegetable color,” he continued.
 Keeping the wedding season in mind, the collection includes wedding lehengas inspired by the Nizamiyat of Hyderabad.
For his Spring-Summer
Collection 2005, Sabyasachi has used an abundance of layered chiffon,
printed georgettes, cotton voils, lace and organza. “It has a very
vintage Victorian-inspired romantic look,” says the designer, who
admittedly digs into history books for inspiration.
Sabyasachi’s designs
will soon be seen on celluloid.
Sanjay Leela Bhansali recently
commissioned him to do the costumes for his film ‘Black’, which stars
the likes of Amitabh Bachchan and Rani Mukherjee. “It’s a very ‘50s
and ‘60s inspired movie, a period film, so to speak,” is all he is
willing to say.
(Despardes Staff Writer)
For more photos check out
Catwalk
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