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JAN 10: After seasons of straightening, smoothing and slicking, big,
bouncy, glamorous hair is back.
Expect to see it on catwalks (Versace, Chanel and Michael Kors
previewed the look on the spring/summer catwalks last autumn); in pop
videos (Kylie is already bouffant); on red carpets (Angelina Jolie
showed off her voluminous mane at the London premiere of Alexander
last week); at the movies (Kate Beckinsale wears it in The Aviator); and on television (big hair
is to Desperate Housewives what Manolos were to Sex and the City).
Ahead of the game, Elizabeth Hurley and Jemima Khan sported styles of
prom queen proportions to Christmas parties and still looked
ravishingly modern. Not to be outdone,
trendsetter Sienna Miller, she of the naturally tousled tresses,
is sporting a fuller, Stepford Wife-type hairdo to set off her diamond
engagement ring.
"Big hair is going to be a strong look this year,"
says Lino Carbosiero, the senior hair consultant at Daniel Galvin in
London, whose clients include Anna Friel. "But it will be very
different to the power bob of the Eighties and Nineties.
When you look at pictures of celebrities during that
era, they actually look younger today – the old style was so ageing."
British hair supremo Sam McKnight, who made the style
the crowning glory of supermodels in the Nineties, is delighted at the
arrival, this season, of more natural-looking, mammoth manes.
"The modern take on big hair is about sexy volume
rather than a big, solid helmet," he says. "Today's look should never
resemble that of a newsreader or look like you've just walked out of a
salon. It must be loose enough to run your fingers through."
"The cut is really important," adds Michaeljohn
stylist Dar, whose clients include Jemima Khan, Goldie Hawn and
Aishwarya Rai, the Bollywood actress famed for her fabulously big
locks. "Hair needs to be sculpted and layered. As with all layered
styles, it helps if you have thick hair, like Jemima's, but only two
in 10 women do."
The condition of the hair is crucial, too. "Hair must
look in great shape," says Carbosiero. "Thankfully, there are many
products now available to help achieve this, even if you have been
using straightening irons or colour."
In New York, blow-dry bars are springing up to cater
for the new, voluminous look. Until they arrive here, follow Dar's
tips on how best to achieve the look at home.
Pump up the volume
After shampooing and conditioning your hair,
towel-dry it to take out excess moisture, and spray a good setting
lotion or root-lift serum throughout, lifting the hair to reach all
sections. Blow-dry your hair, and while it is still warm, lift up an
inch of hair, roll it around your finger and secure it into a hollow
"sausage" with a hair grip. You can use big rollers, but pinning with
grips varies the size of the curls, making it look more natural.
Repeat until all the hair is pinned up. Cover with a medium-hold hair
spray and leave to set for at least 20 minutes. Then, remove the grips
and run your fingers through the hair.
Alternatively, use a medium-sized, round,
natural-bristle brush on warm, just-washed hair that has been spritzed
with setting lotion. Roll the hair around the brush and keep rolling
as you blow dry. While the hair is being dried, cover it with hair
spray. Repeat until all the hair is dry. Run your fingers through it
or backcomb fine hair slightly at the roots. Add a tiny drop of serum
for extra shine. To vary the look, pin up sections of the hair (not
the whole hairdo).
Michaeljohn, Albemarle Street, London W1;
tel: 020 7629 6969
Help your locks to rise and shine
For volume: Pantene Pro-V Sheer Volume
Volumising Root Booster Gel Spray, £2.99 for 250ml (stockists: 0800
028 3578). Philip Kingsley Elasticizer, £20 for 150g, and Maximizer,
£18 for 200ml (020 7629 4004). Bumble & Bumble Thickening Spray, £5.50
for 2oz, and Thickening Shampoo, £4.90 for 2oz (01768 895505).
For hold: Pantene Pro-V Sheer Volume All-Day
Boosting Spray, £2.59 for 250ml; Bumble & Bumble Surf Spray, for bushy
blonde hairdos, £10.90 for 4oz, and Philip B's Self-Adjusting Hair
Spray for maximum hold, £10 for 8oz (both at SpaceNK; 020 8740 2085).
Avon Daily Result Flexible Hold Finishing Spray, £3 for 200ml (0845
601 4040).
For condition and shine: Kérastase Resistance
Bain de Force, £9.30 for 150ml, Aqua Oleum, £19.85 for 12ml, and
Masquintense, £13.50 for 150ml (from Boots). Philip Kingsley's PM36,
£18 for 75ml, and Louise Galvin's Silicon-Free Everyday Treatment
Mask, £26 for 200ml (from SpaceNK, as before).
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