 MILAN, SEP 27 - From Bollywood starlets to intrepid explorers and
colonial polo players, India conquered the catwalk as Milan fashion
week swung into action on Monday.
While Milan basked in an Indian summer outside, designers from
smart Giorgio Armani to super-sexy Roberto Cavalli scoured the
subcontinent for their spring/summer 2005 shows.
Armani went for the whites and khakis of early 20th century
colonialism, deconstructing jodhpurs and Edwardian riding jackets into
a cool Emporio collection which won praise from a fashion crowd that
has criticized his recent shows.
The layered-look was out in force with slashed skirts skimming over
white leggings, thin muslin shirts peeking out under asymmetrical
crushed-cotton jackets, and flounces of midnight-blue silk puffing out
the bottom of evening dresses.
India invaded the accessories shelf too. Caps had a touch of the
turban about them while flat gold sandals were worn under riding spats
zipped tight onto models' calves.
"They're colonial clothes but made very informal, mix-and-match
style," Armani said after the show.
But the 70-year-old designer hinted there were commercial as well
as stylistic reasons to draw inspiration from India, the next emerging
market fashion companies have got their eye on.
"India is energetic and evolving and we're ready to be there
ourselves," he said.
BRIGHT BOLLYWOOD
 Tea-sipping colonialism gave way to Bollywood brashness and jungle
fun at Just Cavalli.
The designer whipped up his own "hippie-kitsch India," sending
models on to the catwalk from behind palm trees and a huge waterfall
surrounded by a pink neon outline of the Taj Mahal.
Bright sari silks floated through the collection, cut into tight-waisted
jackets, sarongs tied over capri jeans or loose caftans that belied
Cavalli's usual body-hugging style.
For those who can't quite take Bollywood brightness, Cavalli sent a
khaki crowd into the jungle wearing embroidered jersey minidresses,
hotpants or wide trousers with turnups decorated with sequins and
strips of embroidered silk.
Cavalli joined the waist-focused trend that already had been set at
the New York and London shows but gave the feminine form his own
twist, cutting dresses and jackets in frayed denim.
(Reuters) | 
