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SAUDI DIARY

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Things go better with hookah!
By Faiz al-Najdi

Young crowd seen enjoying hookah


Faiz Al-Najdi
As one advertisement claims  in  the  West, “things go better  with big big Coke!” Here in the Arab World, however, “when  the  mood  mellows, you get  hooked to Hookah”. But what really is a Hookah

Well, Hookah is basically a  smoking device. It is  an  assembly of a glass jar filled with water connected with brass top having  a  simple  arrangement  of pipe for inhaling flavored (flavors could be from apple to strawberry & mint) smoke of molasses-molded tobacco burning at the top cup (by means of charcoal) and  passing  through  &  cooled  by water in the jar. In simple words, it is a Water Pipe for Smoking. This smoking  device  is  known  by various names. In  the Arab world in general, it is  largely  known  as Sheesha or Hookah; except in Lebanon & Syria, where it  is  known  as  Narghile, pronounced  as  NAARGEELEH. This term Narghile  primarily came  from  Turkey, where  in  fact  the  present  shape  and  design of Sheesha was  largely developed and perfected, and where it is  also known by  the same name. Nevertheless  the Westerners, most of whom  seemed  to  have  developed  a  new found liking for it, mostly  prefer to call it a Hubble-Bubble or simply Hubbly-Bubbly

One may wonder as to what  is  so  special about Sheesha. Well in the Arab world mostly, and for that matter in Turkey also, it is a favorite hangout. In both these regions, smoking Sheesha used to  be  the  “smoke of choice”  for  the  common person. Now it  has  become  a  popular pastime; a high fashion everywhere, especially  amongst  the  teenagers who relish a night out at the “Qahwa” (a coffee shop in Arabic) usually an upscale  filled with trendy guys enjoying  the smoke. Although still considered  a male-only luxury, many women now are also found to be equally hooked to it. And, it has now  also  become  a  much sought after entertainment for fashionable young girls  in  more  liberal societies of the Arab world like Egypt, Lebanon and Syria. In Turkey also, this has  crept  as  a  fashion  into  the women folks who enjoy Narghile smoking as much as the men folks do.  

For those of you who are interested  in  the evolutionary history of the Water Pipe or Sheesha, the original Water Pipe came (possibly  about  500  or  more  years  ago) from  the  Indo-Pak Sub-Continent, where it is  known also as  Hookah. Nevertheless, at that time it was still in its  primitive stage as it was made  out  of  coconut  shell. Then after, through  the  courtesy of the Mughals (the then Muslim rulers  in  the Sub-Continent from the Central Asia), it obtained its popularity first in Iran and  then  in  the Central Asian Republics including Turkey. During the Ottoman Rule, it  is  said  that  it   was   thenceforth   transferred   to  the  entire  Arab world. However, it was in Turkey that Narghile (Sheesha  is known  as  Narghile here) completed its evolutionary cycle. Its shape  and  design  was  thus perfected  in Turkey  and has not changed since the past few hundred years. 

An expatriate tries hookahThere are several interesting anecdotes  associated  with Sheesha smoking from the historical  past. Such stories usually spin around, as a merrymaking gossip  in  Sheesha Cafe between the Sheesha  enthusiasts. One  such  item  is  about  Sheesha  smoking  in  Turkey. It  is  said  that  thousands of Narghile Salon sprouted, across  the  length and breadth of the country, after the first arrival of tobacco from  America way  back  in 1601.

In the early part of the centurty, the Turks took to this smoking with a lot of passion. And, in
1633, outraged at the rapid spread of this vice, the Sultan Murad IV (the then Turkish ruler) imposed  a  ban  on Narghile smoking. However, this prohibition  merely drove  the  smokers  underground & did not quite work and about 14 years later, officials conceded  defeat  and lifted. Narghile soon became an important status symbol in Turkey. Offering  one  to  a  guest  became  an  important  sign  of trust in the society and likewise withholding the same was taken  as a serious insult. Interestingly enough, and as narrated to me by a Saudi Sheesha enthusiast  in a cafe here, in 1841a diplomatic crisis  broke out between France and  the Ottoman Empire after  the  then Sultan, for  some reason, declined to offer the French ambassador a chance  to smoke Narghile with him. It is funny & interesting, no? 

This reminds me of yet another  funny  recollection narrated to me, some time back, in a local Sheesha café by a Pakistani friend of mine. This time  it is about the famous hookah-carrying veteran politician from  Pakistan, Nawabzada Nasrullah Khan. Mr. Khan is very well known for his notoriety in politics  as  he  is  always  in  hot pursuit of agitation against all incumbent government in the country. This posture  of  his  keeps  him always in the news, even today at the age of 90 plus or so, and so are the jokes & stories about him. One such true story is about his famous hookah. Once during  a  trip  to  Europe, Mr. Khan as usual was accompanied with his favorite hookah. After the hectic engagements  of  the day, he set to relax in his hotel suite with his adored hookah. As soon as he  lit  the  charcoal to burn the tobacco in his hookah, the smoke-sensitive fire alarm immediately got triggered. Mr. Khan, obviously, was very puzzled, confused and a bit scared though. Nevertheless the hotel management soon got to the problem and to Mr. Khan also, advising him to pack his hookah and leave. It’s a bit more amusing, no?


A sheesha cafe

Like most  wonderful &  timeless  things  from  the  old  traditions, Sheesha  did  also suffer a decline with the advent  of  the  modern cigarettes. Yet, from Indo-Pak Sub-continent to Iran and from Turkey to Arabia, many still consider this  as  a  favorite pastime. In the Arab world especially, there seems  to  be  a  sort  of  a renaissance of the same all over again. Here in the Kingdom, owing to  absence  of  any  public  entertainment  places (cinema & alike), Sheesha Café does serve as a preferred  hangout  for  the  young (old alike)Saudis. I have been to some Sheesha café here in Riyadh and  they are simply marvelous. The term Café is not appropriate because they are  too  huge  a  complex  like  facility  to  be  called  a  café. Here, one can find literally hundreds of cubicles (about 3m x 3m) furnished with  elegant Saudi (Arabic) seating arrangements (meaning a cozy carpeted floor with typical elbow & back resting cushions) and each equipped with television. These cubicles are well-ventilated tent-like structure with open sides; only a  low  partition  in  between  which  also  serves  as  a  back rest. In these Sheesha cubicles its quite relaxing; while others  enjoy  watching  news  or drama on the TV or simply chit chat along with taking  puff  of  Sheesha, the Saudis  are  conspicuously  seen  to  be fully absorbed watching football games called Kurra-tul-Qadam in Arabic; kurra means ball while qadam is foot. Saudis are known to have obsession for football & Sheesha, and a combination of both, one can imagine, should be simply breath-taking. 

A HookahThe westerners in general and in particular those who have lived in the Arab world, especially in Egypt and UAE, have developed a new found love & liking for this also. Each one of them, the women folks included, loves to buy one set of  the colorful Sheesha and take home both as an artifact and  for  smoking. It is also  said  a  western version  of  Sheesha  is now already in vogue in the west  with  some  improvisation  as  per  the  local  tastes. This includes using ice cubes in water for a fresh cool taste and adding a little bit of sweet red wine into the water for a nice warm feeling with each puff. Sheesha cafes  are  now  a  common  sight  in  the US and Europe. In fact, I have even seen  Sheeesha  being  served  in  some  of  the  Lebanese-owned restaurants as far away as in Sydney in Australia. So, get hooked to it & long live Sheesha!

 

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