NEW DELHI, Nov 8: When designer Niki Mahajan played up to her
strengths—intelligent prints reminiscent of far-flung regions in the
country—it gave a completely new facet to silks, dupions, tussars,
matka, shipley, and embroidered cottons. Since Mahajan’s latest
collection is in time for the cold season, the color palette is
predominantly in jewel tones with bursts of bright hues that augur
warmth—amethyst, coral, jade, ruby, and aquamarine toned down with
earthy wood, stone and sand tints.
The collection weaves together the intricate patterns, motifs and
fabrics from the interiors of India and harmonizes them with the
style preferred by the contemporary Indian woman. Mahajan, who has
been researching rural textiles, embroideries and patterns by
working with national award-winning artisans from Bihar, Gujarat,
Rajasthan, Assam and other remote corners of India for the past
eighteen years, has delved into the very essence of creativity to
form her own individual niche; her rich repertoire of experience is
visible in all her collections. She is aware of her niche, and by
applying smart design tactics, has managed to trim that template to
whatever style happens to be in the air at the time.
This season, she has treated the fabrics with dyeing techniques like
shibori, knots and tye-dye, using commercial and vegetable dyes.
Intelligent prints give a new dimension to each garment, while the
blending of colors has been artistically maneuvered to craft several
layers of design. Mahajan has used hand block printing, textures,
spray-painting and hand painting, combining them to showcase a
traditional yet distinctly contemporary look.
Mahajan’s Fall-Winter ‘05 line reflects the grandeur of Nawabi
Lucknow, which the designer has painstakingly recreated using
threadwork highlighted with tiny badla textures and mukaish worked
over with metal and stone, for an ethnic yet modern interpretation.
However, the real substance of the collection is the kurtis. Taken
apart, their layers speak for themselves. Mahajan’s multi-colored
kurtis in floral and neo-classical prints cut an admirable swagger,
and are teamed with structured trousers. But most welcome of all are
the huge, fiercely glossy scarves teamed with coordinated bags –
accessories that have her audience instantly sold.
(DesPardes.com) |
